A Beginner’s Guide to Painting 3D Printed Models: My Step‑by‑Step Workflow
- Mesh Mayhem
- 3 minutes ago
- 4 min read
A Beginner’s Guide to Painting 3D Printed Models: My Step‑by‑Step Workflow
Painting 3D printed creatures is one of my favorite parts of the entire creation process. Sculpting brings the form to life, but painting is where the magic really happens—where personality, mood, and story finally emerge. When I first started, I felt overwhelmed by paints, primers, brushes, and techniques. Over time, though, I built a workflow that’s simple, repeatable, and incredibly fun.
If you’re new to painting 3D printed creatures—whether you’re working with PLA minis, resin monsters, or big articulated beasts—this guide will walk you through everything I’ve learned. I’ll share the exact steps I use, beginner‑friendly techniques, and where I typically place reference images to help guide the process.
Why Painting 3D Prints Is Different (and Easier!) Than You Think
Painting 3D printed creatures isn’t the same as painting injection‑molded minis or traditional resin kits. Prints have their own quirks—layer lines, different surface textures, and sometimes a bit of sanding—but they also have huge advantages:
You can reprint a model if you want to try a new color scheme
PLA and resin both take primer beautifully
You can scale models up or down to make painting easier
You can test color palettes on scrap prints
Once you get the basics down, painting becomes a relaxing, creative ritual.
My Complete Beginner‑Friendly Painting Workflow
Below is the exact process I use when painting creatures for display, photography, or product examples.
1. Prep the Model (The Step Everyone Wants to Skip)
Before any paint touches the model, I always prep it. This step makes a massive difference in the final finish.
What I do:
Remove supports carefully
Sand any rough areas with 220 → 400 grit
Wash the model in warm, soapy water
Let it dry completely
Where I add reference images:
A photo of the raw print
Close‑ups of areas that benefit from sanding
A before/after of a washed model
These visuals help beginners understand what “good prep” actually looks like.
2. Prime the Creature (Your Paint Needs Something to Grip)
Primer is non‑negotiable. It helps paint adhere, reveals imperfections, and gives you a uniform surface to work on.
My go‑to primers:
Grey primer for general creatures
Black primer for dark, moody monsters
White primer for bright, colorful creatures
Tips I’ve learned:
Spray in light passes
Keep the can about 20–30 cm away
Rotate the model instead of your wrist
Reference image ideas:
Side‑by‑side comparison of black vs. grey vs. white primer
A primed creature ready for paint
3. Base Coating (Blocking In the Big Shapes)
This is where the creature starts to feel alive. I lay down the main colors using either a brush or an airbrush.
My base coat rules:
Start with the largest color areas
Use thin layers—never glob paint on
Don’t worry about perfection yet
Beginner‑friendly paints:
Acrylic craft paints
Miniature paints (Vallejo, Army Painter, Citadel)
Airbrush paints if you have the setup
Reference image ideas:
A creature with only base colors applied
A palette showing the chosen color scheme
4. Shading and Washes (Instant Depth With Almost No Effort)
Washes are the secret weapon for beginners. They flow into recesses and create natural shadows.
Brown wash for organic creatures
Black wash for mechanical or armored creatures
Sepia wash for bones, claws, and horns
How I apply them:
Load the brush generously
Let gravity help
Wick away pooling with a clean brush
Reference image ideas:
Before/after wash comparison
Close‑up of recess shading
5. Dry Brushing (The Easiest Highlighting Technique Ever)
How I dry brush:
Dip the brush in paint
Wipe 95% of it off on a paper towel
Lightly drag the brush across raised areas
What it does:
Highlights scales
Accentuates fur
Adds dimension to armor plates
Reference image ideas:
A dry‑brushed creature showing highlighted edges
Brush and paint setup
6. Detail Work (Eyes, Claws, Teeth, Patterns)
This is where personality shines through.
My detail checklist:
Eyes: small dot of white + iris color
Claws/teeth: bone → sepia wash → white highlight
Patterns: stripes, spots, gradients
Metallics: use sparingly for magical accents
Reference image ideas:
Close‑ups of eyes
Step‑by‑step claw painting
Pattern examples
7. Sealing the Model (Protect Your Hard Work)
A good sealer protects the paint and gives the finish you want.
Matte varnish for organic creatures
Satin varnish for shiny scales
Gloss varnish for eyes, tongues, and wet areas
Reference image ideas:
Matte vs. gloss comparison
Finished creature under good lighting
Beginner Mistakes I Made (So You Don’t Have To)
Using thick paint that hides details
Skipping primer
Over‑washing and losing highlights
Painting eyes too early
Not letting layers dry
If you avoid these, your results will improve instantly.
My Favorite Beginner Techniques (That Look Advanced)
Zenithal Highlighting
Prime black → spray white from above. Instant lighting reference.
Glazing
Thin paint until it’s almost transparent. Build color slowly.
Stippling
Tap the brush to create organic texture—great for skin and moss.
Edge Highlighting
Use the side of the brush to catch sharp edges.
Choosing a Color Scheme (My Personal Approach)
I always start with a story.Is the creature ancient? Magical? Poisonous? Friendly?Color follows narrative.
My go‑to palettes:
Forest creature: greens, browns, mossy yellows
Fire creature: oranges, reds, charred blacks
Ice creature: blues, whites, frosty greys
Cute creature: pastels, warm tones, soft gradients
Final Thoughts: Painting Is a Skill You Build, Not a Talent You’re Born With
Every creature you paint teaches you something new. The first one might feel rough, the second will feel better, and by the fifth you’ll start developing your own style. The key is to enjoy the process, experiment boldly, and never be afraid to repaint or reprint.
Painting 3D printed creatures is one of the most rewarding parts of the hobby, and once you get the hang of it, you’ll start seeing your prints not just as models—but as characters.
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